CroisiEurope’s Loire river cruise, France
Beginning in Nantes, the chic capital of the Loire-Atlantic region, CroisiEurope’s Loire Princess is the only river cruiser on France’s longest river. Arguably, France’s most scenic river too.
Constructed in 2014, this innovative 90-metre-long cabin riverboat, with a depth of just 0.8 of a metre below the water line, is powered by paddles. Through a combination of river-cruising and coach-trips, the five night cruise introduces guests to the charms of the Western Loire region: glorious chateau, delicate Muscadet wines, Nantes’ chequered history and CroisiEurope’s culinary take on the very best of French cuisine.
Although the Loire Princess has the look of a Mississippi paddle-steamer, this is an elegant riverboat that exudes French sophistication, particularly with superb cuisine.
The welcome
The Captain, no less, takes our baggage as soon as we approach the Loire Princess. All hands are on deck for a very warm welcome. After a glance at our ticket, the Director of Entertainment guides us to our cabin and sets the air-conditioning to our personal requirements. All guests gather at 7pm for a welcome cocktail and canapés. In a glamorous ceremony, a cross between catwalk and disco, the crew are introduced. Even before the cocktail the lounge-bar is open. Unless you drink champagne and exclusive wines, the majority of drinks, including tea and coffee, are included in the cost.
The cabin
On the upper deck in a clean white cabin, the beds – which pull together as a double or separate as singles – focus on picture window views of the Loire. Two chairs irresistibly await on the balcony.
Behind the bed there is a mini-desk and access to the wardrobe. There is plenty of room under the beds to slide cases away, once everything is unpacked. Emerging from the ceiling, a screen displays the day’s programme and menus. BBC World is one of the television channels available.
The bathroom
The shower is exceptionally spacious for a cruise ship. Many land-based hotels could learn much from both the simplicity of operation and the water pressure. Toiletries are CroisiEurope’s own brand.
The facilities
An elegant restaurant, with panoramic river views, begins the day with a buffet breakfast, including the option to have guests’ eggs cooked to order. Waiters vigilantly top up coffee, orange juice and the buffet.
Three course lunches and dinners alternate with buffets. Hake on squid ink linguini vies with pork in a creamy sauce for dish of the voyage. A dark chocolate pudding with a soft soufflé centre is most guests’ favourite dessert.
Waiting staff don extra gold braid for the gala dinner. Beginning with a cappuccino-sized cup of intense mushroom soup, moving on to foie gras, veal and then reblochon cheese en croute, it is essentially a regional five course tasting menu. The drama of flaming Grand Marnier accompanying the baked Alaska draws a spectacular feast to a close.
Excursions
Today, CHIC Nantes is France’s sixth most populous city. CroisiEurope’s classic tour guides passengers round a city that expanded rapidly in the 18th century, building a grand neo-classical opera house to show its interest in the arts. Nineteenth century affluence prompted the creation of the Passage Pommeraye, perhaps the world’s most beautiful shopping gallery. An evening cruise on the tranquil River Erdre, where boats are forbidden to create waves, shows where coopers and washerwomen once laboured.
Though the closure of Nantes’ shipyards in the 1980s brought hard times. Cruising downstream through the estuary’s art trail, the Loire Princess passes under St Nazaire’s vast bridge before mooring up for a tour of the shipyards now relocated in St Nazaire.
Cruise line business is booming, with order books full for the next eight years. Guests see how ships, some costing more than €1 bn, one hosting over 6,700 passengers and 2,100 crew, are constructed in sections. A visit to the Escal’Atlantic museum, also in St. Nazaire, exhibits the glamour of the liners that raced across the Atlantic before the era of air travel.
The Loire is synonymous with Muscadet, and after a tour of the surprisingly Italianate village of Clisson with its romantic chateau ruins, it is time for a wine tasting.
The centrepiece of the Angers excursion is the world’s largest tapestry dating from the 14th century. It took seven years to complete the 144 metres wide and 6 metres tall Tapestry of the Apocalypse which gives a remarkable insight into medieval beliefs of Heaven and Hell.
A full day excursion begins with the fairy tale Chateau d’Azay-Le-Rideau built on an island in the River Indre where a mirror moat reflects the grey slate roof and defensive conical towers. Lunch is served in the restaurant amongst the remarkable gardens of the chateau at Villandry. Each of the geometric gardens, curated by 10 gardeners, has a theme, including love, music and vegetables, recreating the style of the Renaissance.
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Other nice touches
Every cabin is equipped with two audio devices and a charger. On tours, guests can easily hear the guide’s commentary, usually in French and English. After dinner, entertainment is provided in the lounge bar, often dancing or live music. On return to the ship, after each excursion, guests are welcomed back on board with an iced soft drink.
The cost
CroisiEurope’s six-day Loire cruise onboard the MS Loire Princesse runs from April to October with prices from £1,487 per person for the cruise with all meals, drinks and port taxes.
The best bit
CroisiEurope’s guides are superb, entertaining experts across architecture, culture and history. Before our full day exploration of the Loire chateaux, Jean-Louis gave a presentation on to the history of the region, including some of the chateaux that we would not have time to visit.
He explained that until the arrival of Catherine de Medici, staircases were spiralled and not straight. Meals were only eaten with a knife. It was Catherine who introduced the civilising fork. But it is also suspected that she kept poison in a locked drawer to eliminate political rivals.
The final verdict
A gourmet cruise for foodies through one of France’s most dramatic regions. Although flocks of white waders serenely fly over the tranquil Loire, it is a region that has witnessed centuries of political intrigue from the Hundred Years War and on through the French Revolution.
In so many ways, the Loire Princess provides a true taste of France, over an unforgettable CRUISE.
Disclosure: Our cruise was sponsored by CroisiEurope.
Michael Edwards
Michael Edwards is a travel writer from Oxfordshire, UK. Although Michael had his first travel pieces published nearly four decades ago, he is still finding new luxury destinations to visit and write on.
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More and more the idea of a river cruise seems a good idea. You get to do a lot of sightseeing without too much effort.
The food looks absolutely amazing. That’s the sort of presentation that you would expect in a top notch restaurant. How do they do it? I doubt that the kitchen is huge and sourcing can’t be easy when the boat’s forever moving.
The idea of having the beds facing out to see the view is great. Don’t suppose they have a kettle so that my husband can make me a cup of tea whilst we cruise along?
No coffee machine or kettle in the cabin but as most drinks (excluding champagne!) are included you can always pop along to the lounge bar for tea or coffee.
It sounds a very relaxing way to see so much of the Loire. You know that you’re always going back to a good meal and a comfortable bed. I love the idea of waking up to views of the river.
Many moons ago, even before the pandemic, a couple we know had a great Croisi river cruise.
What impressed them most was the food and it looks as if those high standards have been kept up.
We’ve done a couple of other river tours in France and they were so enjoyable. But I’d always assumed that you couldn’t sail the Loire as I know it’s very shallow.
What’s interesting is that it isn’t new technology that’s made it possible. Ironic that it is the old fashioned paddle boat that came up with an answer.
I went on a Croisi cruise from Amsterdam to France along the Rhine and the Rhone about 8 years ago. It was the best holiday I have ever had to date.The food was sublime and the generous bar a real treat. I am always planning my next Croisi trip and visit their website regularly! Flying from South Africa makes it a little expensive to connect with the vessel but till we meet and cruise again…….Huge congratulations on a job perefectly done!